A Journey to El Salvador

By: Mr. Wilson on October 20, 2008
Last Friday I joined Mr. T and Beerorkid at El Salvador Cafe in their new location at 221 South 9th Street. They were formerly located on Northwest 48th Street. In business for over 10 years now, El Salvador Cafe offers a variety of authentic Salvadorian cuisine. Or so they say. I wouldn't know; I know zilch about El Salvador. I'll leave the determination of authenticity to the folks who would actually know. The interior is nicely decorated and the restaurant definitely has a cafe feel. In fact, it reminded me a lot of the sort of small town cafe you might find all across Nebraska. It's a nice atmosphere, but it feels more Uni Place, Havelock, or College View than Downtown. If I have a complaint about the atmosphere, it's the huge television in the corner. It felt out of place to me. At least the volume was kept very low. When it comes to the menu, repeat after me: Salvadoran food is not Mexican food. The menu does include a few Mexican-style classics like enchiladas and a burrito, but that's not what El Salvador Cafe is all about. The menu features two primary sections: antojitos Salvadorenos (roughly: Salvadoran appetizers) and Salvadoran specialties. The antojitos include papusas ($2.00), tamales ($1.75 / $2.75 / $4.00), empanadas ($4.25), tostadas ($4.50), and even yucca ($6.50). Many of the specialties feature chicken, beef, or shrimp, and each is served with rice, beans, and tortillas. image I ordered the camaron al mojo de ajo (garlic shrimp) ($13.50). The dish featured seven tasty shrimp served over a bed of ... crinkle-cut french fries? Yeah, that caught me off guard. The flavor was great, but the fries were an odd partner. Overall, I prefer a similar dish I tried a couple months ago at Las Margaritas. I really enjoyed the rice, which was a fluffy, lightly seasoned white rice unlike most anything I've had at any other local south-of-the-border restaurants. The meal also featured a small bowl of black beans served in a very thin, almost soupy style. image Mr. T went with the camarones rancheros (shrimp rancheros) ($13.50). The shrimp were cooked with green peppers and onions, and they were served in a mild red sauce. He noted that some people may find the shrimp flavor of the sauce too strong, but being a seafood fan, Mr. T enjoyed it. He also liked his rice, especially in contrast to the overly salty mounds you receive at a lot of similar restaurants. Mr. T was also a big fan of the tortillas served with the meal. They were warm and filling without being doughy. image Beerorkid ordered a combination plate ($7.00) off the antojitos side of the menu. It featured a papusa, taco, tamal, and beans. He seemed to really dig his meal, though I'll let him speak for himself on the ups and downs of it all. It certainly looked tasty. You may have noticed that the prices of the Salvadoran specialties part of the menu seem kind of high. They are. Prices range from $9.50 (pollo guisado [stewed chicken]) to $14.50 (pescado frito [fried fish] or costa azul [combo of fried fish, ranchero shrimp, and crab legs]). Those prices aren't necessarily terrible for dinner, but they're way too high to be competitive in the Downtown lunch market. In my opinion El Salvador needs to come up with five to ten lunch specialties in the $6.00 to $8.00 range. Service was excellent. The employees were universally friendly and helpful. We did experience one hiccup when Beerorkid initially received an incomplete order, but the problem was quickly fixed and he ended up receiving a free papusa as a result. Food could come out of the kitchen more quickly, especially at lunch time. Perhaps having those 5-10 lunch specials nearly ready to go would help. Overall I would rate our experience at El Salvador Cafe as enjoyable. For now the best meal for your money comes from the antojitos menu. If you're new to Salvadoran food that isn't a bad place to start anyway, since you can try several different items at a reasonable price.

Comments

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beerorkid
October 20, 2008 at 2:44PM

I had to google El Salvadorian cuisine before heading there.  As usual I tried to order some basics to gauge the place.  I stuck to mostly Mexican style choices.

The chicken taco was just as expected and was not loaded with onions which I was grateful for.  The chicken tamal was very good.  Not too spicy, the masa was thick moist and fluffy, and I found some chick peas and potato bits in there.

But it all comes down to the papusas.  Man those are good.  A tortilla they make stuffed with shredded pork, black refried beans, and cheese.  I will go back again just for those.

avabee
October 20, 2008 at 10:57PM

I love Salvadoran food.  They have plenty of Salvadoran restaurants/pupuserias in Omaha, but El Salvador is the only one here, I think.

Pupusas are the best—classic Salvadoran street food.  They also serve a dish that has fried yuca in it (I forget what it’s called).  If you’ve never tried yuca, it’s fantastic. 

Also try the platanos fritos or fried plantains served with black beans and cream.  It’s my favorite Central American food ever!  Soooo delicious.

Mr. T
October 21, 2008 at 12:38AM

Avabee - One note….Jerusalen’s Bakery a bit east of downtown is a Guatemalan bakery that also serves food, including pupusas. I have tried the chicken con crema and chicken pepian there before. It is much cheaper than Restaurante El Salvador but the atmosphere and service leave a lot to be desired.

Having said that, the chicken pepian there is really quite good and you get a lot of food. For about $8 you get a stewed quarter chicken in a spicy pumpkin seed soup with vegetables, a mound of rice, salad, and 3-4 thick corn tortillas.

avabee
October 22, 2008 at 4:05AM

Thanks dude!  I know exactly where that bakery is, but my small brain always automatically equates “Jerusalen” with “Jerusalem” with “Middle Eastern.”  I always wanted to try it (I love Middle Eastern food) but never would have guessed that they sold Salvadoran food.  Definitely checking it out.  Thanks! 😊

avabee
October 22, 2008 at 4:07AM

Oh man, I am internet dumb.  Now my reply looks like I said “Thanks dude!  I know!” 

Sorrrrrrrrrrrry

Mr. T
October 22, 2008 at 4:31AM

The husband of the woman who runs it is from Iraq, and named the place Jerusalen’s. She herself is from Guatemala. They have both Iraqi and Guatemalan food on the menu (as well as Mexican and hamburgers too), but since the husband no longer cooks there, your best bet is the Guatemalan food.

The Chicken Pepian is good. I recommend it and friends I know who have tried it also think its good if you like stewed chicken.

avabee
October 23, 2008 at 11:15PM

Sweet!  I used to travel in Guatemala (and other Central American countries) quite a bit a few years back. Haven’t been to El Salvador (the country) yet. 😊 I miss the region—so I always try to check out Central American restaurants here.

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