I'm having a difficult time buying the idea that the gastropub concept -- as seen at new Lincoln restaurant Brix & Stone in the Haymarket -- is new. Jeff Korbelik describes the concept like so: "Popular in Europe, primarily in Great Britain, the gastropub is defined as a 'bar with good food.' Menu items often include comfort foods, burgers and a shepherd's pie. Several varieties of beers and wine also are available." Forgive me for pointing out the obvious, but that sounds like a large percentage of the restaurants in the midwest. Well, except replace the shepherd's pie with a hot beef sandwich.
I'm sure there's a subtlety in the definition I'm missing out on, but right now I'm having a difficult time telling a difference between the description of a gastropub and, say, the Hi-Way Diner. Too extreme a comparison? Fine, then how about Applebee's and Granite City, or Brewsky's and 9 South Chargrill if you prefer a more local flair? Those restaurants are all about comfort food and alcohol. What's the difference?
I probably sound unnecessarily alarmed, which isn't what I'm going for. I'm just clarifying that the term "gastropub" doesn't so much represent a new cuisine as it represents a not-so-subtle bit of marketingese. The phrase "homestyle cooking" has apparently fallen out of favor and gastropub is here to save the day. Whatever. No matter the name it's still the same food.
I just wish Brix & Stone had opened a year ago. Today I'm in the midst of a renaissance in my diet and there's just not as much room for comfort food as there used to be. (I'm down twenty pounds on the scale as a result.) I would be more excited to hear about new vegetarian or seafood options than a chicken and waffles entree. But when I am in a comfort food mood, you bet your britches I'll give Brix & Stone a try.
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It’s just an elitist viewpoint. It doesn’t sound cool to have a burger and a beer at Mulligan’s. “Gastropub” makes it chic and lets you look down on the little people.
Key line from Korebelik’s review:
I could have done without the TVs playing old videos.
I wonder if this place will be - like almost all sports pubs in Lincoln/Nebraska - lined with tons of flat panel TVs playing ESPN. Not that I’ve got anything against that, but if so, I’d agree with you and say its probably more like just another Nebraska-style sports pub.
Speaking of which, I can’t wait for Monday night football. Its all about Brett Favre and Randy Moss. Nuff said folks.
I saw more of Brett Favre today than I would have liked. If you know what I mean.
I detest the term, “gastropub.” To my mind, that would be a good name for a hospital cafeteria.
::small portions:large portions
:attention to presentation:thrown on a plate
::floors with a 20-second rule:floors with a 0-second rule
::mandatory decent craft beer selection:“We have Bud *and* Bud Light”
::unusual ingredients/toppings:the finest,cheapest condiments Sysco has to offer
::menus that blather on about locally-sourced and/or organic ingredients:menus written in 15 minutes using Comic Sans
::hit-or-miss service:hit-or-miss service
and finally…
::inevitable regret at being overcharged for the meal:inevitable reminder that the meal was really, really cheap and good and you should eat here more often
All that being said, I do enjoy going to gastropubs (and their close cousin, the fancy burger/mac-and-cheese restaurant); there’s several very tasty ones here in KC. All of them, however, are at best a “once every couple months” excursion for me.
Nice breakdown! You’re right…I’ve come across too many menus written in comic sans.
I’ve been trying to avoid looking at the pictures, as well as avoid thinking about that whole story in general, but the media and internets are pushing this thing to death. Its all part of the meta-game drama that should reach its zenith tonight.
Good one, Dave. :D
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